All you need to know about fake eyelashes
(When it comes to makeup, applying false eyelashes is right up there with winged liner and flawless contouring in terms of complexity (or, at the very least, intimidation).
That's why we're here to answer all of your questions about the different (and numerous) styles of fake lashes on the market — which, by the way, have flooded drugstore aisles, Instagram, and even the most opulent beauty boutiques.
The false lash has been fully democratized, thanks to Instagram-fueled trends and a regained influence in the individuality of makeup (I'll wear a false lash on a Tuesday afternoon trip to the grocery store, thank you very much), which was once only synonymous with theater actors, glamazons, and the red carpet collection.
The rapid rise of fake lash-effect mascaras like Glossier's Lash Slick, Maybelline New York's The Falsies, and (my personal favorite) D.J.V. Miaray Fiberwig is evidence that the look of endless, fluttery lashes isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
We've enlisted the help of experts to break down everything you need to know about selecting the best false lash for your eye shape and desired effect.
So grab your falsies and lash glue (remember to let it dry for a few seconds before applying it to your eyelids) and prepare to become a lash master.
Individuals
Individual lashes are a great choice if you want to give your natural lashes a subtle, all-over boost in fullness and length, or simply add definition to particular areas of the lash line.
Individuals are typically sold in sets of 30-60 strands of different lengths, making them one of the most versatile choices for creating a unique look.
"With individuals, you have more influence and can become your own lash artist," says Gita Bass, a makeup artist and Tweezerman brow and lash ambassador.
Anyone looking for a natural-looking way to add length and volume to particular areas of the lash, or to fill in any holes in the natural lash.
"They are the most flexible [false lash type] and can produce any gorgeous look from a natural, 'day' lash to a full intensity look," says Bass.
Use a pair of tweezers or, better still, specially crafted lash applicators to carefully apply each individual lash. (More on that later.)
And, though it can take some getting used to, makeup artist Fiona Stiles recommends, “Practice, practice, practice.”
They can be applied uniformly in between your lashes to improve fullness all over, targeted in sparse areas to fill those in, or added to the outer ends of your lashes for a wide-eyed effect — customization is key with these.
Clusters
Clusters, also known as "flares" or "accents," are a nice choice if you're low on time or want to practice applying full strip lashes, according to Bass.
“The little band on a cluster makes it easier to pop on the lash line, and unlike strips, it doesn't rise on the corners.”
Clusters often have the advantage of being able to be strategically applied to produce a range of looks.
Bass says, "I'll always add a few clusters on the corners to produce a cat-eyed effect."
If you want the same results as a strip but with the flexibility of smaller, more manageable bits, clusters are the way to go.
Apply them in a row for a full stripe effect, or only on the outer corner of your eyes for a broader, cat-eye effect.
Clusters are applied similarly to lash strips by dispensing a small amount of lash adhesive and putting each one along the upper lash line, layering as desired.
“Wiggle mascara at your root once your lash is on to ‘marry' the fake lash and your natural lashes together for a seamless look,” says makeup artist Kelsey Deenihan.
Strips
When people talk about fake lashes, they're probably talking about stripes, which are a horizontal band of faux wisps worn across the entire upper lash line.
“As long as you find a look that fits your eye shape, strip lashes work well,” Bass advises. “A winged or demi lash on the outer corners looks great on round eyes, but deep-set eyes need a slightly longer lash to be visible.
A lash that is longer in the middle is safer for hooded eyes.”
Full lash strips are a fast and simple way to add drama and volume to your eyes, and they come in a wide range of price points.
For added definition, some have a black band, while others have a “invisible” band for a more subtle effect.
Bass says, "I tend to use them for a more dramatic look, or if a client has very sparse lashes and needs the lash base's support."
Synthetic fibers are widely used in both drugstore and prestige lashes, but natural fibers such as mink or silk are occasionally used in the upper echelon of luxury lashes.
Using lash glue and tweezers or lash applicators, full strips are usually added (and a very steady hand). If the strip doesn't quite suit your eye shape, you can always trim it to fit — what most makeup artists suggest for a good fit and result.
“If you're going to use a strip lash, cut it into two or three pieces or use a strong adhesive like Darkness to keep the ends from popping up,” Stiles advises.
“Like anything else, it takes a little getting used to, but the more you do it, the better it becomes.”
“Looking down when applying lashes can seem difficult because you want to see where you're putting them, but it will give you a flatter surface to apply them,” Deenihan explains.
“I use a pair of tweezers to keep the corners of the lash in place until the glue sets to get the hard-to-reach corners.”
Extensions
“Lash extensions are fantastic for clients who want the look of long, thick lashes but don't have the time or stamina to apply them themselves,” Bass says.
“As long as they're done well and kept up with daily touch-ups, they will look fantastic.”
That's the thing: while the results are certainly spectacular, they necessitate a considerable amount of at-home maintenance (in addition to the aforementioned touch-ups) and reflect a significant financial investment.
A complete collection of extensions will cost anywhere from $200 to $500, depending on the salon and the type of extensions you select (mink vs. synthetic).
On the subject of pricing, it's important to remember that, while the siren song of $55 extensions may be alluring, we strongly advise against it.
Although not all businesses listed on discount websites can cause conjunctivitis or swelling, a fast Google search for “cheap lash extension horror stories” (search at your own risk) is enough to persuade us to take our company (and our eyes) to a safe, reputable establishment with years of client experience.
If you want a semi-permanent way to get long, full lashes without having to apply mascara or falsies on a regular basis. They're ideal for holiday beauty that doesn't need a lot of upkeep.
Although at-home kits like Lashify can produce similar results, the in-office lash extension process entails a technician individually gluing extensions of varying duration and thickness to the top row of your upper lashes — a procedure that can take an hour or more depending on how full of a collection you want.
If you sleep on your stomach, you may need to commit to having a spoolie brush handy to detangle them after the application is complete.
Lash extensions will last up to two months, but you'll probably need touch-ups every few weeks to fill in holes where the artificial lashes have shed.
Fantasy
The brash peacocks of the fake lash universe are the fantasy type, which includes all of the above information on all things lashes.
Nothing shouts "Hey World, I'm wearing false eyelashes!" like a veritable plumage of brightly colored feathers flared out from the outer corners of your eyes, as the name implies. Deenihan tells Allure, "There is a time and a place for them."
“You won't see them on the red carpet; some editorial makeup articles may call for a bright, dramatic mascara, but these styles of lashes are more widely used for character makeup.”
If you want to make a dramatic lash declaration for a special occasion like Halloween or New Year's Eve, or if you have a (really) special occasion that necessitates dramatic lashes.
In general, the same rules apply to applying a fantasy lash as they do to applying a lash strip: Using an adhesive to keep them in place and an applicator for extra-precise effects.
Magnetic
Magnetic false lashes are a relatively recent addition to the scene, but they are the makeup world's response to anyone who has struggled with applying lashes at the precise moment when glue is tacky but not fully fixed.
(And, of course, there's the removal procedure, which, if performed incorrectly, can result in the loss of a few natural lashes.)
Magnetic false lashes, once a niche category in the world of false lashes, are now completely mainstream, with prominent mass brands like Kiss and Ardell selling models at reasonable prices.
Magnetic lashes are now becoming more commonly available in a variety of shapes (such as clusters and strips), making them a viable choice for any lash look.
Whether you're looking for a reusable and gentler alternative to conventional falsies, are tired of lash glue, or want to add even more volume to current lash extensions but can't get glue on them, this is the product for you.
For instance, forget everything you know about how to apply a conventional false lash. Magnetic lashes work by sandwiching your natural lashes between two interlocking fake lash strips that are held together by micromagnets.
Begin by putting the upper strip on top of your lashes, then “locking” them in place by bringing the bottom strip underneath your lashes and allowing the magnets to snap them together.
To extract them, gently rub the lashes side to side with your fingers (don't pull or tug) to allow the magnets to naturally separate.
Applicators
You would possibly accept that applying a false lash with only your hands as your instruments is a daunting job unless you were born with the natural coordination and precision of a heart surgeon.
“Using the right equipment is critical when applying lashes at home,” says Bass, who swears by Tweezerman's Lash Assist to get the job done.
“After you've applied the lash, turn the tool around and gently press the lash in place with the back edge.”
Applicators, like false lashes, come in a range of shapes and sizes, so you can need to shop around to find the one that feels the most comfortable for you.
If you're having trouble applying false lashes by hand, a tool might help you out.
Even if you're an expert at applying them, the right tool would likely cut down on the amount of time you spend in front of the mirror.