Zinc Oxide

Zinc oxide is a mineral ingredient found in sunscreens. It’s often referred to as a “physical sunscreen.” If you noticed your sunscreen leaving a white cast, it’s probably zinc!

Zinc oxide-based sunscreens tend to be thick and sticky because the particles tend to accumulate — aka there is no such thing as effective, thin zinc-based sunscreens. If you do have a lighter textured zinc sunscreen, its ability to protect against UV rays might be reduced. Unfortunately, there isn’t really a way around this problem!

Why your skin might love it: What zinc is good for though is use around the eyes and for people with sensitive skin since it’s not associated with allergic reactions.

Zinc oxide particles do a lot of heavy lifting. They work by absorbing, reflecting, and scattering UV light before it can reach the skin; and reducing the incidence of sunburn, skin cancer, and premature sun-induced aging. As a broad-spectrum ingredient, it’s also able to protect skin from both UVA and UVB rays.

Where to find it: Besides sunscreens, zinc oxide can also be found in calamine lotion and diaper rash creams as it can protect against abrasion. Mixing your own zinc oxide will not give you SPF protection, and you have to apply sunscreen according to the directions on the bottle for it work.

This usually means applying about a shot glass full for the whole body (including half a teaspoon for the face, neck, and ears), 20 minutes before going into the sun. Sunscreen should also be reapplied after going into the water, and every 2 hours. To improve protection on active days, choose a water-resistant sunscreen.

The first time I ever heard about taking zinc for skin was back during my first year of college when I had my first-ever encounter with a bad case of acne.

(My skin was perpetually blemish-free all through high school—go figure).

And even though the campus was only about two and a half hours from where I grew up, I rarely went home.

So, when I arrived back in Minnetonka, Minnesota, for a week of R&R during spring break (lame, I know) my parents were slightly taken aback by the seemingly sudden shift in my skin.  

What Is Zinc?

According to Herrmann, "Zinc is an essential mineral that is needed for numerous healthy bodily functions, including boosting the immune system, healing wounds, assisting in DNA/protein synthesis and growth, and the development of children."

• Treats lesions and acne: As Shapiro explains, zinc works with other vitamins and minerals to help treat skin lesions and when taken orally, it can decrease the severity of acne and early signs of maturing skin (lines, wrinkles, spots, etc.).
• Aids in wound healing: If applied topically via products containing zinc oxide, the mineral has been shown "to protect the skin and aid in wound healing and regeneration."
• Helps protect against harmful UV rays: Zinc's protective properties, Shapiro says, explains why zinc oxide is so often found in high-performing sunscreens, as it can reflect the sun and it creates a barrier between the skin and any damaging UV rays. Ng agrees resoundingly: "Zinc (oxide) is one of the two physical sun filters capable of deflecting UV rays, protecting skin from sun damage such from erythema to premature ageing," she says.
• Has anti-bacterial properties: "Zinc is by nature inert, making it a great sun filter for children, or anyone with extremely sensitive or reactive skins," Ng says. "Zinc is also anti-bacterial, astringent and barrier-protective."
• Can be used both internally and externally: And from a dermatologic standpoint, Herrmann offers the following benefit: "Using zinc for skin can help when it's taken both internally and externally. As mentioned earlier, taking zinc orally can help heal wounds, lessen inflammation, and improve inflammatory conditions such as acne."
• Assists in collagen synthesis: "Because zinc acts as an enzyme cofactor, it assists in collagen synthesis and DNA repair, which can help keep skin looking younger and healthier,"
• Available over-the-counter: Unlike some super skincare ingredients, zinc products are available in most beauty and drugstores.

Side Effects of Zinc

If you do your research on quality brands (Twinlab, Solgar, Rainbow Light, Metagenics, Thorne, Pure Encapsulations, and Eidon are expert-approved) and keep your daily dose to the recommendation of up to eight or nine mg daily, 11mg if pregnant, and 12 mg if lactating—although as much as 40 mg is the TUL—supplements can also be an option if you're looking to take zinc for skin.2

"These daily recommendations of zinc are very small, as our bodies don't require the mineral in large quantities. So again, eating a diet that includes foods high in zinc should be enough to prevent deficiency. It should be noted taking extra zinc is not likely to improve your skin, but not getting enough can definitely cause problems like acne, eczema, and dermatitis," says Frank.

"If a person gets too much zinc, they may develop symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, stomach cramps, and headaches. Too much zinc can also lead to low copper levels and a weakened immune response. Therefore, it is extremely important to be careful when taking supplements, as too much can cause serious problems. A person should not exceed 40 mg of zinc daily," she warns. 

So again, it's always best to talk with your physician, and then begin with a lower dose and work your way up depending on your body's reaction.

According to Herrmann, certain antibiotic medications and a few other prescriptions can inhibit zinc absorption—as does alcohol, says Rumsey.

Dr. Rabach echoed the sentiments of Shapiro and Herrmann, but has her own more cautious take on the element: "As an oral supplement, zinc may help acne a little bit, but definitely not as effectively as more traditional oral medications for acne. There are not standardized or controlled studies for dosing or efficacy of oral zinc compared to other oral medications proven to work for acne. Because of bioavailability, people with low zinc levels should choose food rich in zinc before taking oral supplements, as zinc found in foods are better absorbed. Some foods with zinc are super luxurious like oysters, so that can be fun."

How to Use It

As mentioned before, zinc oxide is a popular sun filter. Ng makes sure to note that it's "also popular in spot treatments by reducing redness/swelling, drying out ‘weeping’ or wet blemishes of any sort, and preventing active spots from further infection by physically separating them from the environment." However, she does say that it's "most sun protective when it sits on the skin surface, so the method of application matters. Gently pat/press product into the skin, ensuring that all sun exposed areas are evenly covered."

Almost every expert we talked to maintained that internally, getting your daily quota of zinc through a healthy and richly diverse diet is the best way to supplement your skin. "The best way to make sure you are consuming the right amount of zinc for healthy skin is to incorporate foods that are known to be good sources of the essential mineral," Frank elaborates. "Your body does a much better job absorbing vitamins and minerals that come from food than from any other form."

Plus, Frank adds, you are also much less likely to exceed the upper limit of zinc from food than you are from a pill form. In fact, according to Herrmann, because supplements are not approved by the FDA, amounts of vitamins, minerals, and extracts can ultimately add up to 1000x more or less than what's stated on the bottle.

However, as with any supplement, it's always important to talk to your physician before incorporating it into your routine. And as Frank says, if you struggle with any of the aforementioned skin conditions, struggle with wound healing, or have brittle hair and nails, you should discuss your symptoms first and foremost with your physician.