Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
Since we're in the business of perpetually seeking better and brighter skin, we've known about the glow-worthy benefits of vitamin C for a while now. After all, science doesn't lie: It works. However, when a recent email came through my inbox singing a different vitamins' skin praises, I was intrigued. Apparently, vitamin B3 (also known as niacinamide) is another dark horse when it comes to turbo-charged brightening benefits.
TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Brightener
MAIN BENEFITS: Brightening, prevents signs of aging, reduces acne
WHO SHOULD USE IT: In general, anyone who wants their skin to be bright or prevent aging.
HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT?: You can use it in both morning and evening
WORKS WELL WITH: "When using vitamin B3, it is good to combine it with other stable and powerful antioxidants, such as Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Catechins, Quercetin and Tocopherol," says Dr. Mun. It may also ease irritation related to retinol and skin redness generally.
DOESN'T WORK WITH: N/A, it works well with everything.
What is Vitamin B3?
"When we think about skin benefits and vitamin B3, we're referring to a specific form of B3 (an amide) called nicotinamide [also known as niacinamide]. Nicotinamide is an essential water-soluble vitamin, which is not synthesized in the body, meaning we have to eat it to receive its benefits," says Herrmann. Additionally, the vitamin has been incorporated into skincare products since—as Herrmann stated—our bodies don't produce it on their own. Therefore, if we want to reap the brightening benefits of nicotinamide, it needs to be ingested via supplement or applied topically to the skin: "Nicotinamide is in some topical formulations and can be used in the morning or night as a cream, typically after gentle cleansing." Vitamin B3 can also be found in some of Byrdie HQ's favorite serums (see below), which can either be applied prior or into your go-to night cream.
In short, it's incredibly restorative. "Nicotinamide helps restore cellular energy, repair damaged DNA, and reduce the immunosuppressive effects of sun-induced UV rays." With a fountain of youth likeness, Herrmann compares vitamin B3 to that of a "well-oiled machine," fighting off internal and external stressors that can ultimately lead to the deterioration or breakdown of our skin and premature signs of aging like discoloration and wrinkles.
Another lesser known fact is that most skincare products work better when paired with other ingredients. "Concerning pigmentation specifically, nicotinamide is best paired with other ingredients like hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, and soy, which can work synergistically on the 'pigment pathway' to best help clear brown spots and discoloration," says Herrmann.
Nicotinamide/Niacinamide vs. Nicotinic Acid
However, here is one common misconception when it comes to B3 and its (multiple) monikers: "Nicotinamide is a specific amide (a particular chemical structure) form of B3. It's not niacin, the acid form of this vitamin. Niacin is much more easily found at the drugstore but [occasionally] has the unpleasant side effect of flushing that nicotinamide doesn't have." Not into a red face? Make sure to scan your ingredient lists, and don't assume that despite the lack of "-amide" it's still the same ingredient.
Side Effects of Vitamin B3
"Niacinamide is a powerful ingredient for both skin moisturization and skin brightening," Mun reiterates. "But when used in high concentrations in a skincare formulation, it may cause skin irritation. So, it is recommended to use low concentrations (1-2%) of vitamin B3 in a formulation." Basically, don't overuse, or you might experience some redness or (even worse) dermatitis.
How To Use It
The key to reaping vitamin B3s benefits comes down to choosing your product selection wisely. Herrmann explains that our skin is smart and since its job is to act as a barrier—protecting our bodies from potentially harmful invaders—not all topical formulations may boast the technology to effectively penetrate.
"Any topically applied active ingredient must be formulated in a way so that it can get into the skin to where it's needed," she says. "If nicotinamide successfully penetrates this barrier, it can be effective." Look for B3 products with scientific studies to back them up and not just appealing ingredient lists. You should use it in the morning, and it'll likely be contained in products that boast brightening properties.