Squalane

Squalane oil is becoming increasingly popular as a skincare ingredient — in fact, there's a good chance that it's already in one of the products you're currently using. The buzzy ingredient promises ultra-moisturizing effects as well as anti-aging benefits, but is it essential to include in your skincare routine? We talked to dermatologists to find out everything you need to know about squalane oil, including where squalane comes from, its benefits, and how to use it to improve your skin.

What is squalane oil?

The first thing to know about squalane is that it's the hydrogenated, shelf-stable version of squalene (with an "e"). "Squalene is a lipid, a.k.a. a fat, that is naturally produced by the oil glands in our skin to hydrate and maintain the barrier of our skin," explains Charlotte Birnbaum, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at Spring Street Dermatology in New York City.

So how is squalene different from squalane (with an "a") and why are we bottling it up? Like many other natural compounds with beauty benefits, our body's production of squalene declines with age. Scientists have found a way to obtain squalene from plant and animal sources, but since the fatty molecule is unstable in its natural state, it needs to be hydrogenated (or combined with hydrogen) into squalane, a more stable version that still acts like the same molecule and lends similar benefits, before it can be incorporated into skincare products.

SQUALANE

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Emollient

MAIN BENEFITS: Calms inflammation, supports the outer skin barrier, and works well with actives like retinol.

WHO SHOULD USE IT: It is recommended for all skin types.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: Plant-based squalane is safe to use daily, morning and night.

WORKS WELL WITH: Actives like BHAs, AHAs, PHAs and retinols

DON'T USE WITH: Squalane is safe to use with most ingredients.

Where does squalane come from?

Traditionally, squalene is sourced from the livers of sharks, where it can be naturally found in high concentrations. (In fact, this is where squalene gets its name from, as Squalus is a genus of sharks.) However, because of ethical concerns, many major beauty companies have thankfully shifted away from shark-derived squalane and instead have turned to other sources, since the natural organic compound can also be derived from many plants. Squalene is also abundant in olive oil, and can be sourced from rice bran, wheat germ, and sugar cane.

Benefits of Squalane for Skin

• Softens the skin: "Squalane is great for softening or smoothing the skin, as it may help to support the natural outer barrier of the skin," says Turner.

• Calms inflammation: Turner explains, "It is a good option for dry and irritated skin, as it has been shown to help calm redness and inflammation."

• Great for dry skin types: Turner always recommends squalane for those with dry or and sensitive skin. "Squalane is non-comedogenic, so it can be used for all skin types. Those with dry, irritated, or sensitive skin will see the most effect from squalane oil, but we can all benefit from this superstar skincare ingredient."

• Great for hair: If you love a product that does double duty, squalane is the one. It helps dry hair lock in moisture and has a lightfeel feel that won't weigh your hair down.

• Locks in hydration: Since squalane is a compound that we naturally produce, Hayag says the compound doesn't just hydrate but is essential for our skin barrier. "This substance is known for locking in hydration by creating a protective barrier on the skin's surface," she explains.

• Moisturizes: "It is most beneficial for those with dry or mature skin because of its great moisturizing and emollient properties," she says. "It is also wonderful for people exposed to environmental factors such as sunburn, where the skin tends to lose moisture.

• Regulates oil production: "Despite popular belief, people with oily acne-prone skin would benefit greatly from using squalane oil. Since it mimics what we naturally produce, introducing squalane oil can help regulate the amount of sebum the body makes," explains Hayag.

Side Effects of Squalane

Side effects from using squalane aren't common. However, if you have an adverse reaction, be sure to consult with your doctor. Since squalane isn't a reactive ingredient, Woodman says it will typically play nice with other products.

"If squalane is the main or only active in a face oil, there typically will be no issues mixing it into a routine that contains cosmeceutical-strength skincare," Woodman tells Byrdie. For that reason, squalane, she says, makes a great base for actives like retinol and niacinamide. "Niacinamide, in particular, is a great pairing, as both help to repair and promote a healthy, happy skin barrier."

What type of skin is squalane oil best for?

Due to its powerful moisturizing and soothing abilities, the dermatologists we spoke with find squalane oil particularly useful for soothing dry skin and inflamed skin conditions such as eczema. But one of the great things about squalane oil is that it's safe and beneficial to all types of skin — even if you have sensitive skin or are prone to acne. "[Squalane] is not a common irritant or allergen, so even the most sensitive skin is unlikely to react to it," explains Dr. Birnbaum. "While most oils clog pores, squalane is one of the few that may be used even on acne-prone skin."

Similarly, Dr. Ciraldo recommends squalane oil for all skin types, even oily skin, noting that it's lightweight and non-greasy, so it's unlikely to clog pores or lead to breakouts. "Even if you have oily skin it's important to still try to nourish your skin with healthy oils," she says.

What's the best way to use squalane oil?

If you're interested in incorporating squalane oil into your daily skincare routine, it's always best to check in with your derm, but generally Dr. Ciraldo recommends the following steps twice a day, for both morning and night:

1. Cleanse skin and apply any serums first.
2. Massage in a few drops of squalane oil.
3. Finish off with moisturizer (in the morning, apply a moisturizer with SPF 3o-60, or apply your sunscreen after moisturizer).

You can also use squalane oil on your hair and nails to reap the same hydrating effects. To leave your hair softer and shinier, apply several drops of squalane oil to your scalp. "Massage it into your scalp and then comb through so that you get it to your ends," advises Dr. Ciraldo. As for your fingernails, dabbing a few drops of squalane oil into your cuticles will ensure you get the hydrating benefits, especially if you have dry, damaged nails.