Progeline Cream

There are two types of people in this world—those who find a skincare routine that works for them and stick to it forever, and those who routinely experience beauty boredom and constantly look for the next best thing to try. If you identify with the latter group of people, then you might've come across progeline cream while on the hunt for something new to address all of your anti-aging concerns. But can this product actually address skin firmness and wrinkles? And what is progeline cream, anyway?

What Is Progeline Cream?

Progeline is an ingredient by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics that's described as a biomimetic peptide derived from Elafin. More specifically, as Guanche says, "Progeline cream is bio-engineered peptide that combines glycerin, water, dextran, and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide into one mixture."

Breaking down these ingredients, glycerin is a humectant that pulls moisture into the top layer of the skin, and dextran is a polysaccharide used in artificial tears and acts as a thickener, Sivak explains. According to Romanowski, glycerin, dextran, and water work as moisturizers and carrier ingredients in the formula. And as for the last ingredient mentioned, Sivak explains that trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2 is a fluorinated peptide.

What Is a Peptide?

Before we get into all that progeline cream is (or isn't), it's important to note the role of peptides in skincare. A peptide is a chain of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein, and can allegedly help stimulate collagen growth by tricking the skin into thinking it needs to produce more. But is that theory just a skincare myth, or are peptides in skincare effective for addressing visible signs of aging? According to recent studies, topical application of peptides has shown to provide anti-wrinkle benefits and increase skin elasticity.

While lab tests showcase the ingredient's promising effects, in Romanowski's opinion, this doesn't translate to actual products. "They show some potential, but I think most of the products which feature peptides work no better than good moisturizers," Romanowski explains. "For the most part, if you have a moisturizer with and without a peptide, I do not believe consumers will notice any difference. Moisturizers themselves are effective at addressing signs of aging."

Benefits of Progeline Cream for Skin

If you search for information about progeline on the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics website, you’ll find a breakdown of the ingredient's mode of action: reduces progerin synthesis, inhibits MMPs and elastase, increases syndecan, and contracts collagen. Romanowski points out that while the manufacturer of the ingredient produces laboratory data, "I did not find any independent data to support the use of the product."

• Could potentially reduce signs of aging: Guanche says that it does have the effect of making skin appear firmer when applied, but it's difficult to know whether this is an immediate topical effect, or a long-term anti-aging effect, or both. However, "Reportedly, the peptide can help reduce signs of aging (wrinkles and sagging skin)," Romanowski explains. "They claim it does this by interacting with the skin biochemistry to reduce synthesis of progerin and inhibit enzymes, like elastase, which can break down skin structure proteins. Of course, if your cosmetic actually did these things, that would make it an illegal drug."

• Adds hydration to the skin: Guanche notes, "Due to the glycerin and water content, the skin will be hydrated upon application, since glycerin is a humectant."

If you're now sufficiently confused about the difference between a cosmetic and a drug, here's how to differentiate the two. According to the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, cosmetics are "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance." As for drugs, those are defined by law as, "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and "articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals."

Side Effects of Progeline Cream

Other than potentially wasting money on a product that might not give you the anti-aging benefits you're looking for, is there any harm in trying a progeline cream? Romanowski argues that if these ingredients really did impact the body's biochemistry, you would be experimenting with an untested drug. "Without testing, you would have no way of knowing if it were safe to use on a daily basis," Romanowski says. "It could be completely harmless, or it could cause cancer. That is why testing is done on drug products. It is probably fine, but without testing, you can only guess." Sivak agrees and adds, "Dextran is inert. Water and glycerin are part of our daily lives. Fluorinated peptides are not, so you could say that people that sell progeline are experimenting on the people who buy these products."