Prickly Pear Oil

There’s nothing we love more than a good, do-it-all oil—which might explain our obsession with argan and coconut oil everything last year (and fine, currently). But there’s a new kid on the face-oil block, and it just might make the popular kids old news. We’re talking about prickly pear seed oil, a potentially highly moisturizing, skin-softening oil derived from a cactus. We talked to Dr. Raymond Schep, the Chief Chemist of Colonial Dames Co. and a Member of the CA Association of Toxicologists,

PRICKLY PEAR OIL

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Hydrator

MAIN BENEFITS: Anti-inflammatory, barrier-boosting, hydrating

WHO SHOULD USE IT: In general, anyone with sensitive skin in need of hydration, or with hyperpigmentation issues.

HOW OFTEN IS TYPICAL USE?: Twice a day.

WORKS WELL WITH: Retinols or Vitamin C, which might otherwise irritate the face.

What is Prickly Pear?

It's not often anyone will tell you to put cactus on your face. Largely, this is because cacti are spiny and in fact we wouldn't suggest touching them at all. However, the insides of desert plants are frequently beneficial because the desert is so sparse; think of aloe as an example. Prickly pear isn't only used for beauty products, it's actually often eaten (ever heard of cactus fries?) or consumed in a distilled, syrupy form. In fact, you've probably seen it in cocktails or (for those who don't drink) as an ingredient at your local juicery.

Juiceries sell drinks with prickly pear in them because the prickly pear borders on being a superfood. While the mainstream has just picked up on it, prickly pear has been a staple in Mexican and Southwestern cuisines and households for generations. It's only native to the Americas—although it has since been introduced to other countries—and you might know it under different names, like Opunita or nopal. There are over a hundred species of prickly pear endemic to Mexico alone. But, while this is all cool info, what does this mean for skincare?

How Does Prickly Pear Benefit Skin?

To help us understand all the benefits of prickly pear, we spoke with Munemi Imai, founder of the celeb-favorite prickly pear–based skincare line Mūn. “Prickly pear is extremely high in essential fatty acids, omega-6 and -9, and the natural antioxidant vitamin E,” she tells us. “It’s also rich in amino acids, which stimulate collagen production to promote faster cell turnover. And finally, it also contains vitamin K, which brightens under-eye dark circles and also promotes your skin’s elasticity.” Kypris, another natural skincare line, features prickly pear in its Beauty Elixirs. 

The brand claims that prickly pear oil contains triple the vitamin E contained in argan oil and is more sustainable.

Side Effects of Prickly Pear

One should take note of how much prickly pear they intake lest they take too much. On the easiest end, it causes nausea and bloating. On the worse end, it causes blockage in the lower intestine. However, these are the effects for eating prickly pear or taking supplements—the toxicity of prickly pear transdermally has yet to be studied comprehensively. Odds are, it has a very low toxicity when used in skincare if it is toxic at all. "There are no known drawbacks for the topical use of the material except maybe in case of allergic individuals," says Dr. Schep.

How to Use It