Mineral Oil

It seems like we've only recently gotten to a place where most people aren't totally freaked out when they see the word 'oil' associated with skincare. We now know that not all oils are created equal, and that there are a whole plethora of different types that not only aren't bad for your complexion, but can actually do great things for it. But there's one notable exception that even many seasoned skincare aficionados will steer clear of—mineral oil.

You may have heard of mineral oil’s bad reputation — mostly because it’s derived from petroleum, which raises serious red flags for many people, and is notorious for clogging pores— but there’s a reason this ingredient remains up there as a very common moisturizing ingredient. It has a long history of safe use. If you’re worried about toxic byproduct, this gets filtered out in cosmetic-grade mineral oil.

There isn’t any scientifically-backed evidence that mineral oil clogs pores, and the mineral oils found in skincare will typically be rated as food-grade by the Food and Drug Administration. However, it’s important to keep in mind that all skin is different, and it's important to monitor how mineral oil reacts to your own skin (especially if you are acne-prone).

Ahead, New York City dermatologist Marnie Nussbaum, MD, Claire Chang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City, and New York City dermatologist Gary Goldenberg, MD, help us get to the nitty-gritty details behind this somewhat controversial ingredient and explain the moisturizing benefits it can have.

MINERAL OIL

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Moisturizer

MAIN BENEFITS: Locks moisture into the skin, softens skin, and improves skin barrier function.

WHO SHOULD USE IT: "I recommend mineral oil for those with dry, sensitive skin, and it can even be used in those with conditions such as eczema or psoriasis," says Chang. She notes that not only is it a good moisturizing ingredient, but it also has a very low risk of allergic reactions or irritation. Mineral oil products aren't recommended for acne-prone skin.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: This depends largely on the specific product you're using and how dry your skin is, but generally speaking, it's fine to use once or twice daily.

WORKS WELL WITH: Humectant ingredients such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, which attract moisture to the skin, that the mineral oil can then lock in.

DON’T USE WITH: Because it is very occlusive, don't use it with pore-clogging ingredients, says Nussbaum, particularly if you start to notice blackheads and white heads. (More on whether or not in and of itself can clog your pores in a minute.)

What Is Mineral Oil?

Simply put, mineral oil is a colorless and odorless petrolatum derivative; when used in cosmetics, it's highly refined and purified and therefore does not contain the contaminants that unrefined petroleum has been known for, explains Nussbaum. Still, this is why it's often a no-no in 'clean' formulas. That being said, "Mineral oil has been a mainstay of healing and moisturizing skincare products for decades, included in well-known products such as Vaseline, Aquaphor Ointment, and baby oil," points out Chang. 

Because it's a large molecule it has limited penetration and instead sits on top of the skin, what's known as an occlusive ingredient. This is exactly what makes it a good option in moisturizers—since it traps moisture—but also why it gets a bad rap for being pore-clogging. We promise, we'll get to the legitimacy of those claims in just a second.

More commonly known as petroleum jelly, petrolatum also has a long shelf life, which makes it a commonly-used ingredient in many skincare and makeup products sold today. Common types of products that tend to feature mineral oil in their roster of ingredients include “face, body creams and ointments, as well as eye creams, and foundations, liquid makeup removers and wipes,” says Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and founder of PFRANKMD & Skin Salon.

Benefits of Mineral Oil For Skin

While mineral oil doesn't have any anti-aging or antioxidant effects on the skin, as many other oils do, it is a choice of occlusive, moisturizing ingredient.

• Seals moisture into the skin: Think of mineral oil as creating a barrier between your skin and the outside world, protecting it from outside elements like wind and pollution, says Nussbaum. It's also why it's been shown in studies to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), or the loss of water through the skin.1
• Smooths and softens skin: Any oil, mineral oil included, should help leave skin feeling softer, as it is meant to slip into the cracks in between cells to create a smoother texture.
• Can be used on skin or hair: The type of mineral oil found in skin and hair care products is graded as safe for consumption by the Food and Drug Administration.2 “The mineral oil we would find in skincare is typically rated as food grade,” says Joanna Vargas, celebrity facialist and founder of Joanna Vargas Salons and Skin Care.
• Doesn't clog proes: Regarding whether or not it’s good for the skin, according to our experts, mineral oil itself is non-comedogenic, or not pore clogging, so using it alone won’t leave your pores filled with added gunk.
• Protects the skin: Due to its naturally occlusive, barrier-creating tendencies, says Dr. Frank, “It is best for people with dry skin as it creates a protective barrier. It creates a protective barrier for the skin for hydration and locks in moisture.”
• Available over-the-counter: Unlike some super skincare ingredients, mineral oil products are available in most beauty and drugstores.

Side Effects of Mineral Oil

This is one ingredient that has a low likelihood of causing any kind of skin reactions, says Goldenberg, which is why it's often recommended for sensitive skin types. The big sticking point here is the pore-clogging question.

All the derms we spoke with agree that if you're acne-prone or notice more blackheads or whiteheads after using mineral oil-rich products, skip this ingredient.

That being said, "While it's been anecdotally associated with exacerbation of acne in acne-prone patients, human studies have failed to confirm its comedogenicity," says Chang. The bottom line: Proceed with caution if you are prone to pimples, and know that this may not be the best ingredient for you.

However, because mineral oil tends to form a protective layer on the skin, it may trap some other ingredients onto that top layer of the epidermis, which might lead to clogged pores if that ingredient is known to be pore clogging. “While mineral oil can potentially clog pores, it has a relatively low comedogenicity score in various studies, which is one indicator of propensity to clog pores,” says Dr. Iris Rubin, dermatologist and Founder of SEEN Hair Care. “It is occlusive though, and can therefore trap other ingredients on the skin, potentially leading to clogged pores.” 

Oftentimes, mineral oil is featured as an ingredient in combination with other ingredients within a product. If you have acne-prone skin, or have pores that are especially prone to clogging, be sure to check your product labels in order to see and feel the best results. “It is always important to look at a finished formula to be sure if it is non-comedogenic, since the way ingredients combine really matters,” Rubin adds. Common pore-clogging ingredients include carrageenan, Laureth 4, and sodium lauryl sulfate.

That said, the general consensus regarding mineral oil is that it’s better left for dry skin types that aren’t prone to acne symptoms, like pimples, blackheads, or cysts.

Why your skin might love it: If you noticed Vaseline keeps your lips and skin soft, well mineral oil works in a similar way. As an occlusive moisturizer, it forms a film on the skin that repels water. This slows the evaporation of water from the skin, keeping it hydrated.

And since it’s highly purified and refined, it’s also less likely to cause allergic and irritant reactions compared to natural ingredients. People with sensitive skin may like applying mineral oil as the final step to keeping their skin hydrated.

It’s also widely believed that mineral oil is comedogenic. However, this perception comes from studies on rabbit ears. Later studies on humans found that mineral oil isn’t actually comedogenic.

Where to find it: Mineral oil is found in many heavier facial moisturizers. It’s the main component of baby oil and can be used as a makeup remover, or as a pure body oil.

How to Use It

"The best time to apply mineral oil is a few minutes after showering, when the skin is slightly damp, since mineral oil will help lock some of the moisture into the skin," suggests Chang. And if you're using any other products with moisturizing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, or protective actives such as antioxidants, make the mineral oil product the final step in your routine to seal all of that in, she adds.