Humectants

INGREDIENT: Humectants

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Hydrator

MAIN BENEFITS: Helps retain moisture in skin, preserves overall properties of products, helps seal cracks in skin, exfoliates, and removes dead skin.

WHO SHOULD USE IT: In general, humectants can benefit all skin types because of the range of ingredients that fall under the humectant umbrella. Depending on the amount of moisture you need, you can find the right humectant for your skin type.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: Typical use is 1–2 times daily. Humectants are often found in daily skincare ingredients, and typically used after face wash in the form of a moisturizer. Humectants are not dangerous, but can steal hydrating from deeper skin layers and in turn dry the skin out if over-applied during non-humid weather. 

WORKS WELL WITH: Humectants work well with occlusives, which help to seal moisture in, and emollients, which can help to improve the softness and smoothness of the skin. 

DON'T USE WITH: Humectants hydrate and lead to the concentration of whatever you apply on the skin to stay on the skin. Therefore, you should be cautious with strong acids and retinoids. 

WHAT ARE HUMECTANTS?
A humectant is a hygroscopic substance used to keep  products moisturized and affects the preservation of items, which can be used in cosmetic products, food and tobacco. A humectant-rich formulation contains simple alcoholic sugar that can increase skin hydration and helps to remove and reduce thickness of skin. They are used widely in many products, including food, cosmetics, medicines and pesticides. When used as a food additive, a humectant has the effect of keeping moisture in the food. Humectants are sometimes used as a component of antistatic coatings for plastics.

A humectant attracts and retains the moisture in the air nearby via absorption, drawing the water vapor into or beneath the organism's or object's surface. This is the opposite use of a hygroscopic material where it is used as a desiccant used to draw moisture away.

Humectants can be used in topical dosage forms to increase the solubility of a chemical compound's active ingredients, increasing the active ingredients' ability to penetrate skin, or its activity time. This hydrating property can also be needed to counteract a dehydrating active ingredient (e.g., soaps, corticoids, and some alcohols), which is why humectants are common ingredients in a wide range of cosmetic and personal care products that make moisturization claims (e.g., hair conditioners, body lotions, face or body cleansers, lip balms, and eye creams).

Humectants also encourage the shedding of dead cells (called desquamation) by breaking down the proteins that hold the cells together. If the humidity is over 70%, humectants can even draw water vapor from the air to help moisturize the skin.

Humectants can either be man-made or derived from nature. Each works differently and may have properties that make them suitable for certain applications. One such example is a type of humectant called a nanolipid gel, which is used in many foot and heel balms because of its antifungal properties.

Some common humectants used in food are honey and glucose syrup both for their water absorption and sweet flavor. In addition, some humectants are recognized in different countries as good food additives because of the increase in nutritional value that they provide, such as sodium hexametaphosphate.

HUMECTANTS RISKS:
While there are no general “side effects” of humectants, it is important to note that application is best after cleansing, while the skin is still damp.

“Humectants can be dry skin’s BFF or worst enemy,”. “The problems start when there is little humidity in the air, and the humectant is applied several times a day. It will begin to steal hydration from deeper skin layers, which in turn can dry out the skin.”

If you have a skincare routine, you are probably already using humectants without realizing it. Water-based skincare products are formulated with humectants because they moisturize and have preserving properties. 

Products with humectants can be applied at any stage of your skincare routine when your skin is still damp. Applying the products when the skin is still damp, to help the product easily absorb into the skin. “Humectants should be sealed with an occlusive product unless you live in an extremely humid environment. Otherwise, all of the moisture the humectant worked to bring to your stratum corneum will be evaporating into air.”A humectant is a common moisturizing agent found in lotions, shampoos, and other beauty products used for your hair and skin. They’re known for their ability to retain moisture while also preserving the overall properties of the product at hand.

Humectants can be good for your skin and hair, but not all humectants are created equal. It’s also important to look out for other ingredients that can undo the benefits of the humectant in a particular product formula.

Many moisturizing products contain additional ingredients, such as fragrances and preservatives. However, these ingredients can worsen certain skin conditions. You’ll definitely want to look for a fragrance- and preservative-free formula if you have:

• eczema
• rosacea
• sensitive skin

Plus, these added ingredients can actually dry out your skin and hair.

If the weather is especially dry (particularly during the winter months), humectants can actually draw too much water from the dermis and cause premature drying. This is especially true with synthetic humectants like glycerin.

To counteract this, some moisturizers will add an occlusive agent that prevents moisture loss by creating an oil or lipid barrier on the skin. Occlusives are generally rich and oily and include such ingredients as:

• Mineral oil
• Petrolatum
• Lanolin
• Dimethicone
• Shea butter

While there are a number of two-in-one products that contain both a humectant and an occlusive agent, some consumers prefer to mix-and-match moisturizers as part of their daily skincare routine. Read the product label carefully when choosing, and always apply the occlusive moisturizer after the humectant moisturizer for the best results.

You can think of humectants as magnets that attract water. They pull moisture from the air into the upper layer of your skin.

Humectants work much in the same way when applied to your hair. They help your hair draw in and retain more moisture.

But not all humectants work the same way. Some supply your skin and hair with moisture directly. Others help get rid of dead skin cells first to even out the moisture levels in your skin.

Plus, not all humectants are used interchangeably for skin and hair. This is why you’ll likely see a difference in the humectants used in skin and hair products.

There are countless humectants that pop up in skin and hair products.

Here are some of the most commonly used humectants:

- AHAs are naturally derived ingredients. They’re commonly used in anti-aging skin regimens. AHAs can also help get rid of dead skin cells. This allows your moisturizer to better penetrate your skin.

- Salicylic acid is technically a beta-hydroxy acid. It’s commonly used for treating blackheads and whiteheads. Salicylic acid dries out excess oil and dead skin cells that can get caught in the hair follicle and cause breakouts. This can also help your moisturizer penetrate your skin more effectively.

Some salicylic acids are naturally derived, while others are synthetically made.

- Glycerin is a common cosmetic ingredient used in soaps, shampoos, and conditioners. It may also be found in various cleansing and moisturizing products for your skin. Glycerin may be derived from animal or plant-based lipids.

- Hyaluronic acid is primarily used in wrinkle treatment products. It’s often combined with vitamin C to help lubricate dry skin.

- Urea is recommended for extremely dry skin. However, you shouldn’t apply it to cracked or broken skin, since it can have stinging effects. Some forms of urea are available via prescription.