Hailed as the "fountain of youth," collagen is a hot topic in the beauty sphere. It is one of the most abundant proteins in our bodies. It can be found within bones, muscles, tendons, and skin. It helps to make tissues strong and resilient, able to withstand stretching. In simple terms, think of it as a ‘glue’ that holds the body together and helps form strong structures in our tissues. After all, the word “collagen” comes from the Greek word "kólla" which means glue.

It makes up about 30% of the protein in the human body. Collagen is composed of 19 amino acids (for example, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, lysine and arginine). There are at least 29 types of collagen. Humans have mainly Types I-IV. 

• Type I. This type accounts for 90% of your body’s collagen and is made of densely packed fibers. It provides structure to skin, bones, tendons, fibrous cartilage, connective tissue, and teeth.
• Type II. This type is made of more loosely packed fibers and found in elastic cartilage, which cushions your joints.
• Type III. This type supports the structure of muscles, organs, and arteries.
• Type IV. This type helps with filtration and is found in the layers of your skin.

Most commonly, collagen manifests positive connotations for its role in maintaining the firmness of our skin. It is a part of the connective tissue that in the skin helps in firmness, suppleness and constant renewal of skin cells. Collagen is vital for skin elasticity. Collagen has great tensile strength and, along with soft keratin (another protein), it is responsible for skin strength and elasticity. This explains, in part, collagen’s role in lessening the appearance of wrinkles and loose skin. With the help of elastin, this dynamic team keeps the skin plump and youthful.

 

How does it work?

Collagen is secreted by various cells, but mainly by connective tissue cells.

It is found in the extracellular matrix. This is an intricate network of macromolecules that determines the physical properties of body tissues. A macromolecule is a molecule containing a large number of atoms.

In the dermis, or the middle layer of skin, collagen helps form a fibrous network of cells called fibroblasts, upon which new cells can grow. It also plays a role in replacing and restoring dead skin cells.

Some collagens act as protective coverings for delicate organs in the body, such as the kidneys.

With age, the body produces less collagen. The structural integrity of the skin declines. Wrinkles form, and joint cartilage weakens.

 

What Impacts Our Collagen Levels?

Our collagen peaks around 25-34 years old before beginning to naturally decrease, resulting in a higher likelihood of thinning skin, loss of elasticity, and the formation of wrinkles.

Over time, the quality of collagen we produce lowers and is reflected in reduced suppleness to our skin structure, as well as impacting our joints as cartilage weakens.

Other reasons for a loss of collagen include smoking which has been linked to lower collagen production as well as excess sugar and refined carbohydrates, given sugar interferes with collagen’s ability to repair itself.

Many changes also occur during pregnancy: During pregnancy, a woman’s hormones alter the metabolism of collagen to make the skin more elastic to expand with the growing fetus. It’s therefore essential to support skin health and elasticity during these months.

In doing so, it may help with stretch marks and loose skin post-pregnancy, but perhaps more importantly, collagen can help strengthen the soft tissues which undergo increased strain during pregnancy. Many women also experience hair loss or thinning after pregnancy, and collagen supplementation can combat this by encouraging new hair growth and better hair strength.

Another key component to boost the natural production of collagen is vitamin C. Without it, the body is unable to produce collagen. It, therefore, shouldn’t come as a surprise that scurvy [resulting from lack of vitamin C] is a disease associated with collagen degradation, with the first signs being visual blemishes of the skin.

 

What happens when collagen levels drop?

The body's production of collagen decreases dramatically with aging. When this happens, there is a reduction in your skin elasticity and epidermal thickness. This leads to skin damage and an increase in wrinkles and sagging skin. Decreases in collagen may also lead to stiffer and less flexible tendons and ligaments, shrinking and weakening muscles, joint pain, osteoarthritis, and gastrointestinal problems. Low collagen may reduce hair growth and contribute to hair thinning.

Things that damage collagen

Unfortunately, collagen starts to degrade with age, and our genetics can affect how fast that degradation happens. We lose collagen year after year, and make lower quality collagen. Free radicals damage collagen — they are our skin’s enemy. Environmental factors (like UV rays or pollution), bad lifestyle habits (smoking), and a poor diet (for example one high in sugar) all create free radical formation, which speeds collagen breakdown.

Research suggests that smoking allows free radicals to attack collagen fibrils, rendering them weak and of poor quality. It’s not surprising, therefore, that the skin of a smoker tends to look damaged and wrinkled, particularly around the mouth

Brief Overview:

• Eating too much sugar and refined carbs
  Diets that are high in refined carbohydrates and sugar have been shown to break down collagen in a process called glycation which is when excess sugars in the body bind to collagen and elastin proteins and over time impair normal cellular function.
• Getting too much sunshine
  UV radiation can cause collagen to break down at a higher rate than normal aging. It does this by penetrating the middle layer of skin (dermis). Over time, they break down the collagen and elastin in the upper layers, causing permanent damage.
• Smoking
  Chemicals in tobacco smoke have been found to break down collagen and elastin.

 

How to Increase Collagen Production

Sunscreen

Sunscreen is the number one step to stop aging. Every day, we are exposed to UV rays. UV rays directly cause collagen degradation. By wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least an SPF of 30-50+ daily, we slow or even halt the gradual breakdown of collagen.

Antioxidants

Antioxidant-rich foods that contain vitamin E, C, and zinc are helpful to the body’s process of creating new collagen.This includes fish, berries, green leafy vegetables, green and white tea, etc. 

Another option to benefit from antioxidants is applied topically in a potent serum. Ideally, both topically and dietary consumption of antioxidants to stimulate collagen. For example, a focus on antioxidants like vitamin C. Vitamin C is critical for the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen. It also helps protect our skin against free radicals, oxidative stress, and UV rays – all things that degrade collagen.

Retinoids

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are key to all anti-aging skincare routines. Retinoids, (including retinol) directly upregulate our genes and cells that are involved with collagen production. It increases collagen and collagen precursors, increases cell turnover, and has been proven to reduce wrinkles.

Aesthetic Procedures

Microneedling is a professional, in-office procedure that uses tiny needles to penetrate the skin in a controlled environment. These micro-injuries stimulate our body’s own natural repair system to rebuild collagen in the skin.

Laser treatments and chemical peels also create intentional controlled injuries in the skin; the healing response to these wounds involve the production of new collagen.

 

Nutrients that may support collagen production:

• Vitamin C: citrus, berries

• Proline: egg whites, wheat germ, dairy, mushrooms, asparagus

• Glycine: gelatine, chicken skin, pork skin, bone broth

• Copper: organ meats, sesame seeds, cocoa powder, cashews, and lentils.

 

Forms of collagen

Collagen as Supplements

Consuming supplements is another method of potentially boosting our overall collagen. Oral collagen supplements in the form of pills, powders, and certain foods are believed to be more effectively absorbed by the body and have skyrocketed in popularity among consumers. Despite its abundance in our bodies, collagen has become a top-selling supplement purported to improve hair, skin, and nails—key components of the fountain of youth. The idea of popping a pill that doesn’t have side effects and may reverse the signs of aging is attractive to many. According to Google Trends, online searches for collagen have steadily increased since 2014.

Most supplements are either hydrolyzed collagen or gelatin, forms which have already broken down collagen into peptides and are smaller and better absorbed. Collagen supplements contain amino acids, the building blocks of protein, and some may also contain additional nutrients related to healthy skin and hair like vitamin C, biotin, or zinc. 

Most collagen supplements originate from animal sources such as pigs, cows, and what is referred to as “marine collagen” which is made from fish. As far as vegetarian and vegan options go, truth be told, there are no alternatives despite plant-based supplement brands selling collagen products. At a closer look at these supplements, you will find with vegetarian and vegan options that they are actually collagen-boosting with ingredients like vitamin C and zinc that stimulate the body’s own collagen but don't contain any collagen at all.

 

The Common Ones

Neocell Super Collagen

Nature's Bounty Beauty Collagen Type 1+3 Gummies

Shiseido The Collagen Drinks

Vital Proteins Beauty Collagen Powder

The Unique Ones

Vital Proteins Collagen Creamer Vanilla

Vital Proteins Collagen Creamer Mocha

Picnik Unsweetened Collagen Creamer

Collagen Bars

Kalumi Beauty Food Collagen Protein Bar

Collagen Cookies

Beauty Food Collagen Cookie Choc Chic

321glo Soft Baked Collagen Cookie Birthday Cake

Collagen Oats

Purely Elizabeth Collagen Protein Oats

Collagen Juice

Vital Proteins Collagen Water

Collagen Coconut Water

Coco Luxe Glow Pure Coconut Water

Collagen Peanut Butter

Beauty Food Nut Butter Peanut Butter with Collagen

Wild Friends Collagen Almond Butter Vanilla

Collagen Apple Cider Vinegar

Vermont Village Beauty Boost Functional Vinegar

 

Collagen as Skincare Products

There are a lot of collagen-infused skincare you can find on the market. From cleanser to serums, moisturizers, and facial masks. Putting collagen into your skin isn't going to stimulate other collagen, sadly enough. However, collagen is known for having great moisturizing benefits when applied topically, so if your beauty routine consists of applying a collagen cream, it's not a total loss. Topical collagen creams are said to improve fine lines and wrinkles by replacing the lost collagen, but in reality, the collagen mostly moisturizes it.

 

Collagen as Facial Treatment

Collagen Facial

Collagen facial is a treatment designed to deliver the right amount of collagen & collagen supportive ingredients to the skin, which also helps in rejuvenating the natural collagen synthesis process

Collagen fillers

Collagen/fat injectable fillers, also called soft-tissue augmentation, is a cosmetic plastic surgery procedure performed to correct wrinkles, depressions in the skin, and/or scarring. The procedure involves injecting a substance (collagen and/or fat) into the skin in order to plump or fill-up the area being treated.