Cica

What is cica?

Cica creams are a go-to for anyone suffering from skin sensitivity or flare-ups. For starters, it's a nickname: Scientifically speaking, it's known as centella asiatica, "an herb from the family Apiaceae, also known by the common name gotu kola or Indian pennywort,".

Cica has been used for nearly 3,000 years in wound healing. The animal kingdom discovered these benefits long ago: Tigers are said to rub their wounds on the Asian plant to help them heal — hence its other well-known nickname, tiger grass. Now, skincare brands are adding the ingredient to moisturizers, serums, and more to restore skin compromised by redness and sensitivity.

What Is Cica Cream?

Studies into cica creams have shown that this hero ingredient can relieve minor burns, help heal scars and even soothe psoriasis. You may think it's a K-Beauty trend, but its roots are actually in Western dermo-cosmetic products (La Roche Posay’s cult Cicaplast helped to inspire this South Korean craze).

In an article about cica cream, Mintel’s Global Beauty Analyst Jane Jang writes, “brands are already trying to differentiate their cica creams.” Not ones to stand still, innovative South Korean beauty companies are pushing the boundaries and formulating centella asiatica with other ingredients like probiotics and infusing it into fan-favorite products, like CC creams, serums and face masks.

What is cica good for?

Those who struggle with acne, rosacea, or even severe dryness can benefit from the skin-soothing active: "It is well tolerated by even the most sensitive skin,"says Ava Shamban, M.D., a dermatologist and founder of Skin Five Clinics and Ava MD Dermatology in Los Angeles.

"Rich in anti-inflammatories, antioxidants, and antibacterial properties, cica has been shown to fight off free radicals, regulate collagen synthesis, and prevent future damage from environmental stressors," says Dr. Shamban.

When Should You Use Cica Cream?

Since we all have sensitive skin at times, cica creams really do suit everyone. Thanks to the key ingredients' previously mentioned anti-inflammatory properties, cica products may be especially useful to have on-hand after certain skin treatments, such as after a chemical peel, IPL treatment or between retinol applications when your skin can be feeling a little raw. Even if your complexion isn’t particularly stressed out, you may find a cica cream is a welcome addition to your daily routine: "moisturizers or serums with this ingredient are great for dry, aging and sensitive skins, as they boost collagen production,” say the Lion/ne co-founders.

What should you know before using a cica product?

"It is always best to start using any new active ingredient several times a week and slowly work your way up to nightly use," recommends Dr. Shamban.

Also, be sure to check the ingredient list: though most brands include the word "cica" or "tiger grass" in the ingredient list, some formulas like Kiehl's cream use an active extract from cica instead, such as the Madecassoside.

What are the best cica products?

Opt for a serum or cream that will be left on skin for an extended period of time, and "for the most effective results, use it as a night-time treatment, while skin is in repair mode," advises Dr. Shamban.