Argireline

For eliminating dynamic wrinkles (those caused by repeated muscle movement—think crows’ feet around the eyes or the "11s" in-between your brows), there’s no denying that injectable neurotoxins (Botox, Dysport, Juveau) are the most effective option. By paralyzing the muscle, they prevent this movement, and boom—wrinkles are gone. But what if you don’t want to go under the needle? Enter argireline, a synthetic peptide that has several different wrinkle-fighting and anti-aging effects.

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Peptide

MAIN BENEFITS: Prevents the muscle movement that leads to wrinkle formation. Argireline also promotes collagen production and optimizes the function of collagen, which both fight fine lines and improve moisture levels in the skin, says Shah.

WHO SHOULD USE IT: Anyone looking to smooth out wrinkles caused by repeated muscle movement in areas such as the forehead and around the eyes. It’s also a good pick for anyone with dry skin as it actually helps allocate moisture to the area of application.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: It can be used daily.

WORKS WELL WITH: One study suggests that it works well in conjunction with another peptide, tripeptide-10-cirtrulline, which increases the permeability for argireline to penetrate to a depth where it can target muscles that cause wrinkles, says Linkner. It’s also often combined with hyaluronic acid to up the hydration benefits.

DON'T USE WITH: Generally speaking, argireline works well with all ingredients.

What is Argireline?

Argireline is just a brand name for a particular peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-3 (aka acetyl hexapeptide-8). As a quick reminder, peptides are short chains of amino acids, the foundation for proteins including collagen and elastin, making them essential for healthy, youthful skin, says Shah. While various peptides are common in skincare, this one differs in its ability to reduce muscle movement and the accompanying wrinkles that come with it; it’s the first peptide with a targeted effect on expression wrinkles, notes Shah.

“Everyone is trying to mimic Botox's contenders, and so far, argireline is one of the best contenders,” adds Linkner. Argireline is a peptide that affects the nerve-to-muscle communication so that the muscles can’t adequately contract, she explains. Along with its muscle-paralyzing effects, it also stimulates collagen production, further helping to keep skin smooth and wrinkle free.

A few things worth noting when it comes to the use of argireline in skincare products: For starters, because it’s a brand name, there’s actually only one lab in Spain that has the patent on the peptide. They license out its use to various brands, who often combine it with other anti-aging ingredients, notes Linkner. Second, the formulation of each individual product will truly dictate its efficacy: “Just because a product contains argireline doesn’t necessarily mean it is effective. The formulation itself, as well as the size of the peptide, will affect how deeply it can penetrate into the skin,” says Bae. 

In searching for a product, choose those that don’t contain alcohol, particularly if your skin is dry. “Argireline can be hard to formulate with, and some companies mix the ingredient with alcohols, which counteract its hydrating function,” notes Shah.

Benefits of Argireline for Skin

For the ultimate in wrinkle-fighting, pick this peptide, which targets those pesky lines and wrinkles multiple ways.

• Prevents dynamic wrinkles from forming: “Argireline is very specific in that it interferes with a protein receptor complex which helps cause muscle movement,” says Bae. Translation: It keeps the nerves from talking to the muscles and telling them to contract—and fewer muscle contractions result in fewer wrinkles.

• Stimulates collagen production: By increasing the production of collagen, the protein responsible for firm, healthy skin, it also helps to keep fine lines and wrinkles from forming.

• Helps the skin retain moisture: Argireline also optimizes collagen function, which, along with the skin-smoothing effects, improves moisture levels in the skin, says Shah. And hydrated skin is always going to look more youthful than dry skin.

Side Effects of Argireline

In general, there are no known side effects of this ingredient. Still, if you want to play it extra safe, you can always test it out on a small area for a few days in order to make sure you’re not allergic to it.

How to Use It

This peptide is best for targeted application on spots where you have deep folds or creases that have formed due to repetitive muscle movement—the crinkles around your eyes, the ‘11’ between your brows, and forehead wrinkles are all ideal spots. Because the final formulation of each individual product can vary drastically, follow product instructions for how often to use it.